A Step Too Far in Cultural Appropriation?

Footwear Fiasco: Prada’s Controversial Sandal Launch

At Milan Vogue Week on June 22, 2025, Prada unveiled its Spring-Summer season 2026 menswear assortment, together with a minimalist “leather-based footwear” design that bore an uncanny resemblance to India’s iconic Kolhapuri chappal—and ignited a worldwide uproar inside hours.

These slipper-style sandals, with their braided T-strap design, instantly caught international consideration, not for his or her luxurious enchantment, however for his or her placing similarity to India’s iconic Kolhapuri chappals, a handcrafted leather-based sandal with a centuries-old heritage rooted in Kolhapur, Maharashtra.

Why Did They Go Viral?

The sandals went viral nearly immediately, however not for the explanations Prada might need hoped. Social media platforms, significantly X and Instagram, exploded with reactions as customers acknowledged the design as almost equivalent to Kolhapuri chappals, a cultural staple worn by everybody from farmers to city millennials in India. 

Posts on X known as out Prada for what many noticed as a “shameless money seize,” with one consumer, @WokePandemic, noting that Kolhapuris, bought regionally for ₹300-₹1,500 ($4-$18), have been being rebranded as luxurious gadgets doubtlessly priced at ₹1.2 lakh ($1,400). One other put up by @thebetterindia highlighted the artisans’ battle, stating, “These iconic sandals, handmade in Maharashtra for hundreds of years, inform tales of custom, resilience, and royalty. But, artisans nonetheless battle low earnings and fading recognition.” 

The viral outrage was fueled by memes, sarcastic feedback, and hashtags comparable to #KolhapuriChappals, which amplified the talk over cultural appropriation.

The Controversy: Cultural Appropriation or Impressed Design?

Design Resemblance

Kolhapuri chappals, crafted because the twelfth century by artisans from marginalized communities just like the Dalit Chamar, function intricate braided leather-based straps and toe loops. Prada’s sandals mirrored this aesthetic, right down to the braiding sample, however omitted any acknowledgment of their Indian origins, prompting accusations of design theft. 

Awarded Geographical Indication (GI) standing in 2019, Kolhapuris are protected in India, however as IP skilled Sonal Madan notes, this affords no worldwide enforcement, leaving artisans weak to international manufacturers.

Cultural Appropriation Debate

The controversy reignited a broader dialogue: the place is the road between cultural inspiration and appropriation? Cultural appropriation, as outlined by style historian Swati Sharma, happens when “parts of tradition, significantly these of traditionally oppressed or colonized societies, are adopted by dominant teams with out consent, attribution, or compensation.” 

Prada’s preliminary silence on the Kolhapuri inspiration was seen as exploitative, particularly since artisans earn ₹250-₹400 ($3-$5) per pair whereas luxurious manufacturers revenue considerably.

Indian designer Ritu Beri emphasised, “It’s about moral recognition. India should push for royalty-sharing and co-branding.” Some, like artisan Shivaraj Soudagar, noticed a silver lining, noting that Prada’s highlight may globalize the craft, however provided that artisans are pretty compensated. Others, together with BJP MP Dhananjay Mahadik, known as it a “severe infringement on Maharashtra’s cultural identification,” demanding authorized motion.

Public Response

The backlash was swift and multifaceted. On X, customers like @folkloristan posted, “No @prada – these aren’t ‘leather-based sandals’ – this can be a kolapuri. You don’t get to look down upon our traditions, solely to repackage them.” Vogue watchdog Food regimen Sabya shared runway footage, critiquing Western manufacturers’ historical past of appropriating Indian designs.

Bollywood star Kareena Kapoor Khan additionally jumped into the dialog, amplifying it far past the style bubble. She posted a photograph of her personal conventional Kolhapuri chappals on Instagram with the caption:

“Sorry not Prada…however my OG Kolhapuri.”

The cheeky put up rapidly went viral, garnering hundreds of likes and feedback praising her for standing up for Indian artisans. As ABP Reside reported, Kareena’s nod was extensively interpreted as each a cultural clapback and a reminder that genuine Kolhapuris are nonetheless a part of on a regular basis Indian life, with out the posh markup.

Cultural historians and journalists weighed in, with Kanika Gahlaut noting that whereas Prada’s actions lacked authorized grounds for infringement, they raised “moral points” by not initially crediting the supply. The human rights group Dalit Voice underscored the sandals’ significance as “a legacy of Dalit craftsmanship and resilience,” amplifying requires respect.

In the meantime, memes mocked the value disparity, with one viral put up quipping, “Prada’s promoting my dad’s sandals for ₹1.2 lakh!”

For shoppers who view luxurious as an expression of their values, this controversy serves as a poignant reminder that provenance and authenticity are simply as essential as design.

Prada’s Response

Going through mounting stress, Prada issued a response on June 27, 2025, by Lorenzo Bertelli, head of company social accountability. In a letter to the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Business, and Agriculture (MACCIA), Bertelli acknowledged that the sandals have been “impressed by conventional Indian handcrafted footwear, with a centuries-old heritage.” 

He clarified that the design was nonetheless in improvement and never but commercialized, including, “We’re dedicated to accountable design practices, fostering cultural engagement, and opening a dialogue with native Indian artisan communities.” 

Prada additionally expressed curiosity in follow-up conferences to discover potential collaborations, a transfer that MACCIA President Lalit Gandhi praised as a step towards selling moral style. Nevertheless, some artisans, like Prabha Satpute, remained skeptical, telling BBC Marathi, “They need to be named after Kolhapur. Don’t benefit from others’ labor.”

The West’s Longstanding Fascination with Indian Heritage

Prada’s Kolhapuri controversy will be the newest flashpoint. Nonetheless, it’s hardly the primary time European luxurious homes have mined Indian tradition for artistic inspiration—generally with little greater than a passing nod to their sources. Over the previous twenty years, Indian motifs, textiles, and symbols have ceaselessly appeared on runways, in campaigns, and high-profile collaborations. Listed here are just some examples that underscore this persistent sample:

Throughout Pharrell Williams’ second menswear present, staged on Paris’ oldest bridge, the model unveiled a playful miniature autorickshaw bag—full with three wheels and a tiny roof. A ₹35 lakh bag formed like an auto—a stark distinction between affordability and luxurious pricing. Whereas some praised it as a tribute to Indian road tradition, others criticized it as an costly novelty that diminished a well-recognized a part of each day Indian life to a collectible prop. You can purchase 15 actual auto-rickshaws for that worth,’ quip netizens. 

 

Maria Grazia Chiuri offered a shimmering, mukaish-embroidered lengthy coat, echoing the normal metal-thread embellishment perfected by artisans in Lucknow. Regardless of the craftsmanship on show, the gathering provided minimal credit score or context concerning the heritage approach, sparking quiet discontent amongst textile consultants.

Over time, Gaultier has integrated saree-inspired drapes, turbans, bindis, and sherwani jackets into his couture strains, describing them as celebrations of “unique attract.” Whereas undeniably theatrical, these collections typically handled Indian tradition as a stylistic flourish relatively than a dwelling custom.

• John Galliano (Dior, early 2000s):

Galliano’s collections drew closely on Mughal silhouettes, together with empire-waist tunics and lavish brocades harking back to the royal courts of India. Although visually beautiful, the designs hardly ever credited their subcontinental origins.

• Karl Lagerfeld (Chanel, 2012):

Chanel’s Métiers d’Artwork assortment was staged in Mumbai’s Taj Mahal Palace Lodge, that includes fashions in Nehru-collar jackets and sari-inspired drapes. Regardless of the grand setting, mentions of Indian embroiderers and artisans remained relegated to tiny footnotes within the press relatively than receiving front-and-center acknowledgment.

This recurring fascination displays a sophisticated fact: Indian heritage has turn out to be a wealthy supply of visible language for luxurious style, but native communities are hardly ever full contributors within the earnings or storytelling.

In lots of of those circumstances, manufacturers have provided restricted transparency about sourcing, compensation, or collaboration, fueling the argument that what is commonly billed as a cultural alternate can look suspiciously like extraction wearing luxurious packaging.

As designer Shirin Mann noticed:

“It’s time for manufacturers to appreciate that referencing a tradition comes with a accountability to credit score and uplift the individuals who formed it.”

Broader Dialogue: Inspiration vs. Appropriation

Prada’s Kolhapuri controversy isn’t a one-off. It’s half of a bigger, persistent sample in international style, the place inspiration blurs into exploitation. Right here’s the way it stacks up:

Excessive-Profile Circumstances of Alleged Cultural Appropriation in Luxurious Vogue:

Dior (2019)

• Impressed piece: A set modeled after the apparel of Mexican escaramuzas (horsewomen).
• Controversy: Launched with out credit score or collaboration with Mexican artisans. Native designers accused Dior of exoticizing a dwelling custom.
• Response: Dior later partnered with artisans in Chiapas, however solely after public outcry.

Isabel Marant (2015)

• Impressed piece: A shirt design matching the normal embroidery of Mexico’s Mixe group.
• Controversy: The shirt carefully resembled Mixe patterns protected below Mexican legislation. Marant initially claimed originality earlier than admitting “inadvertent” borrowing.
• Response: The Mexican authorities took authorized steps, pushing for worldwide craft protections.

Gucci (2018)

• Impressed piece: Turban-style headwear bought as “Indy Full Turban.”
• Controversy: Sikh communities protested, citing deep spiritual symbolism. Critics slammed the sale of sacred cultural identification as trendwear.
• Response: Gucci pulled the product and issued an apology.

Victoria’s Secret (2012)

• Impressed piece: A runway costume that includes Native American struggle bonnets.
• Controversy: The headdress is sacred in lots of Indigenous tribes, not a style prop.
• Response: The model issued a public apology and reduce the look from the printed.

Prada’s Pradamalia Blackface Controversy (2018)

The Kolhapuri sandal scandal echoes previous controversies for Prada—most notably its 2018 Pradamalia collectible figurines, which have been pulled after public outcry over their resemblance to blackface imagery. 

• In December 2018, Prada got here below intense international scrutiny after launching a vacation window show at its SoHo retailer in New York Metropolis, that includes small collectible figurines and keychains from its Pradamalia assortment. The gadgets—supposed to be whimsical, fictional creatures—have been half of a bigger marketing campaign that includes monkey-like characters with darkish brown faces and outsized pink lips.

Though the model later fashioned a Variety Council, critics argue that the most recent appropriation controversy reveals systemic points that stay unresolved.

The Kolhapuri Case in Context

• Financial Disparity: Whereas Prada priced its sandals over ₹1.2 lakh (~$1,300), precise Kolhapuris made by Indian artisans promote for as little as ₹600 ($7), typically with razor-thin margins.

• Declining Craftsmanship: In response to The Indian Specific, solely 15,000–20,000 artisans stay within the Kolhapuri ecosystem, down from over 100,000 in previous a long time. Craft survival is threatened not simply by appropriation but in addition by:
  • Cow safety legal guidelines (since 2014) have constrained leather-based availability.
  • Rising uncooked materials prices.
  • Restricted youth curiosity in pursuing conventional crafts.
• Authorized Loopholes: India’s Geographical Indication (GI) tag for Kolhapuris (awarded in 2019) affords home safety however lacks worldwide enforcement.

As IP skilled Sonal Madan notes, this leaves artisans weak on the worldwide stage. The PIL in opposition to Prada within the Bombay Excessive Court docket could set a precedent, however enforcement overseas stays murky.

A World Push to Decolonize Vogue

Shoppers—particularly Gen Z and Millennial consumers—are more and more demanding the next:

• Transparency in sourcing and design inspiration.
• Honest compensation for artisans.
• Co-branding or collaborations that credit score cultural origins.

Lalit Gandhi, president of the Kolhapuri Footwear Affiliation, instructed The Hindu:

• “Cultural alternate in style is nice, nevertheless it has to return with correct credit score and collaboration.”
• Designer Shirin Mann sees alternative within the controversy:
• “This is likely to be the highlight Kolhapuris wanted. If it sparks delight and demand regionally, there’s silver lining.”

This rising motion displays a shift in client values: from blind status to aware provenance. For luxurious to stay related, moral storytelling isn’t non-obligatory—it’s the longer term.

The Highway Forward

Prada’s Kolhapuri sandals, Dior’s mukaish embroidery, and Vuitton’s autorickshaw bag all level to a extra profound want for luxurious manufacturers to maneuver past surface-level homages. The way forward for style lies in clear co-creation, truthful compensation, and an acknowledgment that cultural heritage is not only uncooked materials—it’s dwelling identification.

Name to Motion: What’s Subsequent for Prada?

This scandal raises questions on Prada’s model notion. Will shoppers view this as a one-off misstep or a sample, given previous controversies just like the 2018 Pradamalia assortment, which was criticized for resembling blackface imagery? The model’s swift acknowledgment and promise of collaboration could mitigate the harm.

Nonetheless, public sentiment on X suggests lingering mistrust, with customers demanding tangible motion, comparable to co-branded strains or royalties for artisans.

Whether or not this blows over as a pattern cycle controversy or prompts lasting change is dependent upon Prada’s follow-through. Will they prioritize moral partnerships, or will this be one other case of a luxurious model profiting off cultural heritage?

The Intersection of Luxurious and Ethics @ The Luxurious Closet

Transparency and respect in design references are non-negotiable in as we speak’s style panorama. Prada’s Kolhapuri controversy is a reminder that true luxurious lies not simply in craftsmanship however in honoring the communities behind it. As shoppers, we should maintain manufacturers accountable—as a result of cultural heritage isn’t simply inspiration; it’s part of our identification. 

At The Luxurious Closet, each piece carries authenticity and the respect it deserves. Discover and uncover hidden treasures which might be acknowledged, beloved, and cherished for what they’re and the palms that crafted them.