For over six centuries, the Antinori household has formed the course of Italian winemaking, establishing a legacy constructed on custom, pioneering imaginative and prescient and an unwavering pursuit of excellence. However Marchese Lodovico Antinori has by no means been one to relaxation on heritage alone. From founding Ornellaia and Masseto — two of Italy’s most celebrated wines — to his newest enterprise, Lodovico Wine, he has constantly pushed boundaries, redefining what Tuscan winemaking will be.

On this unique interview, Mr Lodovico Antinori displays on his journey — from reworking the worldwide notion of Italian wine to embracing sustainability and the evolving tastes of a brand new technology. With an unshakable dedication to high quality and rarity, he continues to form the way forward for positive wine, proving that the luxurious wine business isn’t just about title or historical past alone — it’s about imaginative and prescient.

The Antinori household title is synonymous with centuries of winemaking excellence. How does Lodovico Wine each honour this heritage and carve its personal identification?

I began working with the household enterprise in America when Italian wine had a really distant presence there. This was within the late ’60s, a time when the notion of Italian wine was fairly low. Many wines nonetheless got here in straw-wrapped bottles, and the business was dominated by French wines for reds and German Rieslings for whites. Italian wines have been seen as second-tier.

That have formed my imaginative and prescient. I realised that Italian winemaking had the potential to evolve past custom and stand on equal footing with the world’s greatest wines. Fifteen years later, I stepped away from my household enterprise to create one thing small however of outstanding high quality — one thing that really mirrored my philosophy.

I launched my first impartial venture within the Eighties, aiming to raise the requirements of Italian wine. On the time, many Italian producers have been complacent, sticking to the established order. My objective was to wake them up, to point out that we had the land, the local weather, and the potential to do higher. I wasn’t simply one other Antinori — folks knew my household title, however in addition they noticed that I had constructed one thing alone. That impressed many small producers to lift their requirements. Right now, the standard of Italian wine has improved considerably, and I take satisfaction in having contributed to that shift.

Lodovico Antinori and his daughter Sophia – 2022

What was the inspiration behind founding Lodovico Wine, and the way does it differ out of your earlier ventures within the wine business?

The concept for the wine got here from a winery that was uniquely uncovered to the north. Historically, vineyards are planted dealing with southwest to maximise solar publicity. However with the rising temperatures and local weather change, I believed — why not do the other? So I planted the winery dealing with north, the place it could obtain much less direct daylight.

At first, I wished to call it “Vigna Nord,” which suggests ‘North Winery.’ However my German agent—one in every of my strongest supporters — insisted towards it. “That will be a catastrophe,” he instructed me outright. He left my workplace abruptly, and later, I known as him to ask why. His response: “You’re getting outdated—you left the reply proper in entrance of you”. I used to be taken abruptly as a result of I had by no means deliberate to place my very own title on the wine. I used to be hesitant and shy about it at first. However then he gave me an ultimatum — he even wrote me a clean cheque and stated, “If you happen to title it Lodovico, you possibly can fill within the quantity and money it. However in case you insist on calling it Vigna Nord, I received’t offer you a single cent”.

If you’re beginning a venture, funding is important, so in the long run, I gave in. That’s how the wine got here to bear my title. In fact, with a private title comes an incredible sense of accountability — particularly within the American market, the place placing your title on one thing means a dedication to high quality. It implies a deep stage of care and involvement. Folks assume I examine each barrel myself, which, to be trustworthy, I don’t. However I do take the accountability significantly.

What units Lodovico aside out of your earlier tasks?

The largest distinction is that Lodovico is centred round Cabernet Franc. Earlier than this, with Biserno —which you will be acquainted with — we labored with a Bordeaux mix, incorporating all of the basic varieties, together with Petit Verdot. However this venture focuses totally on Cabernet Franc.

That stated, the wine we’re ingesting as we speak additionally accommodates a little bit of Merlot. That’s as a result of our winemaker, Michel Rolland, has a powerful desire for Merlot — he simply can’t resist including some to the mix. He’s not as eager on Cabernet Franc as I’m, so we’ve had a number of debates in regards to the percentages. Over time, although, he’s began listening to me extra, and from the 2020 classic onward, we’re lowering the quantity of Merlot.

Earlier than that, from our first classic in 2007 via to 2019, we used the next proportion of Merlot — typically 10 to 12 p.c, typically 5 p.c, relying on the yr. However transferring ahead, we’re focusing much more on Cabernet Franc to provide the wine a particular character.

Sustainability is a key matter in luxurious winemaking as we speak. How does Lodovico Wine combine sustainable practices with out compromising on high quality?

We’re not absolutely biodynamic or natural, however we’re following a set of protocols that can enable a few of our vineyards to transition to natural practices within the subsequent 5 years. That stated, it’s not my main focus in the meanwhile. Sustainability is vital, however my primary precedence is at all times high quality. It units an instance within the area. However in fact, sustainability comes at the next value. A sustainability-focused method is costlier than conventional strategies. For instance, in typical winemaking, you possibly can merely spray chemical compounds to take away weeds, however that’s not good for the soil or the roots.

We’ve taken a extra ecological method. As an alternative of actively eradicating weeds, we allow them to die off naturally. This implies we don’t have to plough as typically or disturb the land unnecessarily. We intention for sustainability, or as we are saying in Italian, ecosostenibilità, however with out essentially adhering to strict natural certification, which requires particular remedies which might be pricey and don’t essentially enhance the wine.

For pest management, we not use pesticides. As an alternative, we use a German-developed answer that stops bugs from reproducing. It doesn’t kill them — it merely disrupts their reproductive cycle. This fashion, the inhabitants step by step declines with out introducing poisonous chemical compounds into the winery.

In fact, all of those add to the price of manufacturing. Sustainable practices are costlier than the usual viticulture strategies used throughout Italy, which depend on cheaper, typical remedies. Labour can also be a major issue. Whereas many wineries use machines or quick-fix chemical remedies, we require expert staff to are inclined to the vines manually, guaranteeing each step is finished with precision. This stage of element and care is what makes our wines costly — but in addition what makes them distinctive.

Marchese Lodovico Antinori with Michel Rolland, a Bordeaux oenologist

The luxurious wine market is turning into more and more aggressive. What do you imagine units Lodovico aside as a collector’s wine?

Amount performs an important function. For instance, Lodovico is restricted to solely 10,000 bottles per yr. And that quantity won’t ever improve — it’s written right into a contract, even after I’m gone.

There’s at all times the temptation, when a wine is profitable, to supply extra. However I imagine that might be a mistake. Collectors and connoisseurs aren’t silly—they’ve refined palates, they usually can instantly detect even the slightest change in high quality. That’s why we stay dedicated to this strict manufacturing restrict. Rarity is a key consider luxurious, and sustaining exclusivity ensures that our wine stays really particular.

One other defining aspect is the function of Cabernet Franc in our wine. The potential for getting old is extraordinary. On the earth of luxurious, longevity is a vital assertion. An amazing wine shouldn’t solely be drinkable when younger however must also enhance considerably over time.

For instance, we not too long ago opened a bottle of Lodovico from 2007 — one of many earliest vintages, when the vineyards have been nonetheless younger. Solely 3,000 bottles have been produced that yr, but it has aged fantastically. The wine has developed, gaining depth and complexity with none indicators of decline. That’s what defines a really nice wine: the flexibility to mature gracefully over many years whereas remaining a pleasure to drink at any stage.

Lodovico and Piero Antinori (center and proper), along with their nephew Niccolo’ Marzichi Lenzi (left)

How is Lodovico partaking with the brand new, youthful technology of wine drinkers, and what methods are you implementing to enchantment to their evolving tastes and preferences?

They need one thing totally different. A lot of them come from rich households, in order that they’ve grown up surrounded by positive wines. However they need to distinguish themselves, to drink wines that aren’t the identical as what their dad and mom want.

In the meanwhile, my wines enchantment extra to an older viewers. However I do have a venture within the works for youthful drinkers — a wine known as Villa del Nik, which will likely be from the 2012 classic. This can be a venture I’m engaged on with my daughter, who’s 25. She will likely be extra in tune with the preferences of the youthful technology. I imagine they (youthful shoppers) want wines with decrease alcohol content material, wines which might be a bit lighter, much less opulent, and extra restrained. The development is shifting away from the daring, extremely concentrated wines that have been as soon as designed to impress the American market.

Up to now, American shoppers have been used to ingesting whiskey, milk, or nearly nothing else. After they have been first launched to wine, they discovered the style too tannic, too harsh. That’s when Robert Parker — a really well-known American wine journalist — had a serious affect. He satisfied European winemakers, together with the French, to melt their wines. We tailored, making wines with rounder, smoother tannins, and harvesting later to realize riper fruit flavours. That type dominated for a very long time.

That leads me to my subsequent query. There’s a rising development of alcohol-free wines, significantly within the U.S., pushed by a brand new, health-conscious motion on social media. What are your ideas on alcohol-free wine, and do you suppose it impacts positive wine?

No, positive wine won’t be affected by that in any respect.

In America, they name this type of factor a “fad”. Identical to orange wine grew to become a development, alcohol-free wine is one thing that’s gaining reputation with sure teams, significantly youthful, health-conscious shoppers. Nevertheless it received’t have any actual impression on the positive wine world.

With a rising curiosity in wine as a type of funding, do you take into account Lodovico a wine meant for collectors, buyers, or purely for the pleasure of ingesting?

We produce wine for pleasure — we would like folks to drink and revel in it. That’s the core function.

However in actuality, there are collectors who purchase wine as an funding. Some drink it, however others retailer it and promote it later when the worth rises. The English are particularly identified for this — they typically purchase 5 circumstances of wine early, promote two circumstances after a number of years when the worth will increase, and basically benefit from the remaining wine without cost. This was quite common within the Bordeaux market when costs have been booming. Traders would purchase wine early, maintain onto it for 5 years, after which promote at a revenue. Nonetheless, the Bordeaux market has declined not too long ago, so this type of hypothesis isn’t as profitable proper now.

Do you suppose your wines are suited to funding in the identical method?

To not the identical extent. Our wines aren’t but established sufficient out there for that form of hypothesis.

The primary classic I ever made was bought at public sale as soon as — only one time. That was again in 2001. Then I finished providing it at auctions for some time. However from the 2021 classic, I’d begin once more.

Just lately, some vineyards in France struggled to make sufficient revenue from wine gross sales alone, in order that they launched tourism experiences — winery stays, guided excursions, and even Airbnb-like lodging on their estates. Do you see this turning into a development in Italy as properly?

Sure, this idea already exists in Italy. There’s even a authorized framework for it. If a winery turns into a part of this program, they obtain tax advantages and different benefits, however they have to adjust to strict rules. For instance, they’ll’t purchase meals from commonplace distributors; they have to supply from authorized native suppliers. Ideally, they need to develop their very own greens, fruits, and eggs on-site. It’s a good looking concept, however typically it’s troublesome in observe. If visitors arrive when sure elements aren’t in season, the winery should nonetheless discover a method to offer them whereas staying inside the rules.

Nonetheless, this mannequin is extraordinarily widespread, particularly in Tuscany, which has grow to be an iconic luxurious vacation spot. Tuscany attracts guests with sturdy monetary potential, so even small vineyards can profit. If a pair with a baby needs an expensive but genuine expertise, they’ll now discover precisely that.

How do you see the function of residing areas, such because the one you’ve created, the place the proprietor interacts with the visitors?

They occupy one ground, pay an inexpensive quantity and dwell along with the proprietor, making a form of interactive, communal life-style. This has been particularly profitable with youthful folks. I feel what they’re doing with that is superb. We did one thing related at first, however the usual was so excessive, it ended up costing some huge cash. Now, I hope my nephew is caring for it. He’s very tight with funds and desires the stability sheet to be beneficial. He doesn’t perceive how vital it’s to entertain folks. Even when it’s costly, it’s the one type of promoting we do. In fact, it’s not worthwhile for us as a result of we do it at a excessive commonplace, which suggests we want extra personnel, and that’s costly. So, it value an excessive amount of. My nephew is now specializing in making it a good looking spot as a result of folks come and go to.

How do you see the function of restricted editions and exclusivity evolving within the positive wine business?

We at all times produce small batches — about 10,000 bottles, which could be very small compared to different American wineries, which produce a number of thousand circumstances of 12 bottles every. In American phrases, that’s a couple of thousand circumstances, every case containing 12 bottles. So it’s actually a small operation, not like Romanée-Conti, however nonetheless very small in dimension. We haven’t promoted it a lot — phrase of mouth is the way it spreads. Some folks prefer it, they usually speak to their pals. However we haven’t accomplished a giant promotion in regards to the rarity. We at all times promote out of the circumstances, although. We haven’t wanted to overpromote as a result of the rarity itself attracts consumers. Our circumstances are costly, however due to the restricted amount, we at all times discover prospects.

How do you see the function of expertise — be it in viticulture, manufacturing, or distribution — shaping the way forward for Lodovico Wine and the wine business?

The technological side we use could be very trendy, however we even have a philosophy of minimal intervention. The objective is to the touch the grapes as little as doable to keep away from surprising them. We’ve discovered that noise can disturb the grapes, so we attempt to reduce it. The French have an analogous philosophy with their winemaking, the place they emphasise not disturbing the wine an excessive amount of. It’s a bit romantic, nevertheless it’s additionally about respecting the character of the product. We imagine that the much less you disturb the grapes, the higher the ultimate wine will likely be.

What does the subsequent decade have in retailer for Lodovico and the world of winemaking?

Within the subsequent 10 years, the vineyards will proceed to age, and that can vastly enhance the standard of the wine. Older vineyards produce higher wine, and ours are solely about 14 or 15 years outdated, in order that they nonetheless have time to mature. We additionally plan to develop into the American market, which we haven’t been capable of do as a result of we’ve by no means had sufficient wine to provide it. When it comes to strategic development, we’ll give attention to making our wine out there to collectors in America, which has been a long-term objective.

With regard to worldwide enlargement, proper now, we’re sturdy in Europe, particularly Jap Europe. We’ve made nice strides there. Singapore can also be turning into an vital market, nonetheless at current, our gross sales are decrease, however we’re assured that we will increase that quantity to round 300 bottles. Our objective is to promote roughly 600 bottles there. We even have connections in Hong Kong and Shanghai, the place we’ve had some success. Nonetheless, the rich Chinese language market is at the moment extra keen on Burgundy wines, significantly Pinot Noir. Consequently, we’re seeing a shift out there preferences, and we’re adapting to that development.

Lastly, in your personal phrases, describe what makes a “good” wine.

A very good bottle of wine is one which has a stability of all its parts, in equilibrium. It ought to have depth and character, bringing out the character of the grapes from which it’s made. It shouldn’t be excessive — simply sufficient to recognise the varietal. For me, magnificence is likely one of the most vital points of wine. By magnificence, I imply that the wine should be refined. It ought to by no means be too overpowering or too weak. The secret’s stability.

For extra on Lodovico wine, head to their web site right here: https://www.lodovicowine.it/en/dwelling.html

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